We recently brought you a post all about the poodle: a highly intelligent, determined, and athletic dog that has been man’s faithful companion and workmate for hundreds of years. In fact, poodles are so beloved and their temperaments and traits so desirable (especially the fact that they don’t shed – a trait which they pass on) that they have become a breeder favorite for crossing with other dogs. These pairings have produced some amazing, interesting (and in some cases, quite amusingly-named) new types of dogs.  Here are a few of the more common mixes followed by a list of some others you might encounter.

Bassetoodle – Basset Hound x Poodle

Bich-poo – Bichon Frise x Poodle

Bolonoodle – Bolognese x Poodle

Bossi-Poo – Boston Terrier x Poodle

Cadoodle – Collie x Poodle

Cardoodle Poogo – Cardigan Welsh Corgi x Poodle

Chi-Poo – Chihuahua x Poodle

Chinese Crestepoo – Chinese Crested x Poodle

Cockapoo – Cocker Spaniel x Poodle

Cockapoochi – Cocker Spaniel x Chihuahua x Poodle

Dalmadoodle – Dalmation x Poodle

Doodleman Pinscher – Doberman Pinscher x Poodle

Double Doodle – Goldendoodle x Labradoodle

Doxiepoo – Dachshund x Poodle

Foodle – Toy Fox Terrier x Poodle

Goldendoodle – Golden Retriever x Poodle

Jack-A-Poo – Jack Russell Terrier x Poodle

Labradoodle –  Labrador Retriever x Poodle

Lhasapoo – Lhasa Apso x Poodle

Malti-Poo – Maltese x Poodle

Newfypoo – Newfoundland x Poodle

Papi-poo – Papillon x Poodle

Pekepoo – Pekingese x Poodle

Pinny-Poo – Miniature Pinscher x Poodle

Pomapoo – Pomeranian x Poodle

Poo-Shi – Shiba Inu x Poodle

Poo-Ton – Coton De Tulear x Poodle

Poochin – Japanese Chin x Poodle

Poogle – Beagle x Poodle

Poolky – Silky Terrier x Poodle

Pootalian – Italian Greyhound x Poodle

Poovanese – Havanese x Poodle

Pugapoo – Pug x Poodle

Rattle – American Rat Terrier x Poodle

Rottle – Rottweiler x Poodle

Saint Berdoodle – Saint Bernard x Poodle

Schnoodle – Schnauzer x Poodle

Scoodle – Scottish Terrier x Poodle

Shar-Poo – Shar-Pei x Poodle

Sheltidoodle – Sheltie x Poodle

Sheepadoodle – Old English Sheepdog x Standard Poodle

Shepadoodle – German Shepherd x Standard Poodle

Shih-Poo – Shih-Tzu x Poodle

Siberpoo –Siberian Husky x Poodle

Skypoo – Sky Terrier x Poodle

Springerdoodle – English Springer Spaniel x Poodle

Terri-Poo – Australian Terrier x Poodle

Westiepoo – Westie x Poodle

Whoodle – Soft Coated Wheaton Terrier x Poodle

Wire-Poo – Wirehaired Fox Terrier x Poodle

Yorkipoo – Yorkie x Poodle

For more poodle mixes, check out http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/poodlemix.htm.

Have a poodle mix in your life? Tell us about it in the comments below, or post a picture on our Facebook page!

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It’s an unfortunate fact of life: at some point, you are going to catch the flu. You may even have suffered through it already this year. But did you know that your dog is also susceptible to a canine version of this ailment? In fact, Canine Influenza, more commonly referred to as the dog flu, has been causing quite the stir these last few years. Read on to learn about Canine Flu, how to recognize it, and what to do about it.

Canine Influenza

Canine influenza is a contagious viral infection in dogs caused by Influenza Virus A subtype H3N8. It is believed to have mutated from the horse (equine) influenza virus. It was first reported in 2003 among racing greyhounds and in 2004 among companion pets.

The Canine Flu can be a mild to severe illness, depending on the breed of dog. Brachycephalic (or snub-nosed) breeds such as the pug, Pekingese, Boston terrier, and boxer tend to have a tougher time with it. In mild cases, symptoms can include a soft, moist cough with or without a low grade fever, and potentially a yellow/green nasal discharge if a secondary bacterial infection is present. In more severe cases, a high grade fever can result, as well as rapid/difficult breathing, which is usually the result of secondary pneumonia. Symptoms generally last 10 to 30 days even with treatment. The Canine Flu is rarely fatal; fatalities are usually the result of secondary complications such as pneumonia. However, the mortality rate for dogs with untreated Canine Flu is estimated at 1 to 5%.

The virus is contagious and is spread via airborne respiratory secretions, the same as the common cold. Outbreaks have been reported in 30 states at this point. As this is a fairly new disease, there is currently no natural immunity for it; however, The vaccine requires two doses, two to four weeks a vaccine has been developed and is readily available. apart, with a booster every year thereafter. It generally costs between $25 and $60. Many vets are now recommending it along with the other standard respiratory disease vaccines; check with your vet for availability and if it is recommended for your dog.

If you have to handle a dog that has been diagnosed with Canine Flu, make sure to use gloves and thoroughly wash your hands and other surfaces the dog came in contact with to prevent spreading the disease to other dogs. The virus can remain viable on surfaces for up to 48 hours, on clothing for 24 hours, and on hands for 12 hours. Its incubation period is usually two to four days from date of exposure, and it is during this time (while dogs are asymptomatic) that infected dogs are actually most contagious. Dogs are generally considered to be contagious during the first 10 days of the illness.

If you suspect your dog has contracted Canine Flu, please try to keep him isolated and take proper precautions to avoid spreading the disease especially during the first ten days when he is most contagious. You should also contact your vet ASAP. A diagnosis cannot generally be made upon physical examination, as Canine Flu symptoms closely mirror symptoms of Kennel Cough and other respiratory infections. There are two tests, however, that can be conducted on your dog to help determine if he does in fact have Canine Flu. If the dog has been symptomatic for four days or less, a nasal swab can be done. If a dog has been symptomatic for up to seven days, a serum (blood) test can be done.

Treatment for Canine Flu generally includes rest and proper nutrition. If a secondary bacterial infection has set in, antibiotics may be prescribed. In severe cases, dogs may require intravenous fluids and antibiotics. Most dogs are back to normal within three weeks.

For more information on the Canine Flu, please visit:

The American Veterinary Medical Association’s Canine Influenza Page

The American Veterinary Medical Association’s Canine Influenza Backgrounder

WSU’s Canine Influenza Page

The CDC’s Canine Influenza Fact Sheet

DogInfluenza.com

Photo Credits:

Top: Audrey (audreyjm529) via Flickr.

Bottom: Gina Spadafori (giori) via Flickr.

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Old Man Winter has made his presence known in most of the country by now, and both people and dogs are preparing themselves for the even colder days ahead. While many dogs blanch at the prospect of a long trek in the ice and snow, there’s one category of dogs that approaches it with sheer, unbridled eagerness and joy: they are the sled dogs, denizens of the frozen tundras and icy poles. Their athleticism and endurance is unrivaled, and their heroics, intelligence, and loyalty have been lauded around the world. This week, DogWatch would like to pay tribute to these hard (and hardy) workers, and we hope you’ll fall as in love with them as we have.

For thousands of years, man has used dogs as draft and pack animals, tapping into their endurance and strength to haul both people and goods across increasing distances and harsh climates. The earliest evidence of man using dogs to pull sleighs exists in the Thule people of Canada – the precursors of the Inuits – and dates back to around A.D. 1000. However, it is believed that domesticated working dogs existed in North America as far back as 15,000 years ago. For the Thule, Inuit, and Athabascan people of the great white north, as well as other northern native cultures, using these dogs for transportation of people and goods was a part of daily life.

The historical sled dogs were split into two breeds: the Native Village dog, bred and used by the Thules and Inuits of the coastal regions of Canada, and the Interior Village dog, bred by the Athabascans that settled further inland. It is the Native Village dog that is believed to be the ancestor to today’s predominant sled dog, the Alaskan husky.

The Native Village Dog itself was a mix of breeds, which are thought to include the Germanic spitz and the northern timber wolf. An exceptionally hardy breed, it had extreme tolerance of cold and the ability to haul heavy freight over long distances. In later years, the faster but less sturdy Siberian husky (brought to Alaska by Russian fur traders in the 18^th century) was introduced to the mix by those were looking to increase the dogs’ speed, at the cost of decreasing some of their hauling capacity.

While Alaska has in most circles become synonymous with modern-day mushing (as the activity of captaining dog-pulled sleds is called), it is actually the fur traders and gold prospectors of Canada’s Northwest Territory in the 18^th and 19^th centuries that are responsible for mushing’s formalization and standardization. With the Gold Rush in the late 19^th century, trade boomed in the Northwest Territory, and traders and prospectors used dog sleds as their chief mode of transportation for their wares and supplies.

These traders introduced the commands used today to direct the dogs: “marche” (French for “walk” or “march” and often mispronounced as “mush,” hence where the modern “mush” command comes from) to make the dogs go, “whoa” to make the dogs stop, “gee” to turn right, and “haw” to turn left. They also increased the team numbers from two to four dogs, which tends to be the bare minimum for today’s teams. Many sled dog teams comprise ten or more dogs; teams that compete in the Iditarod and other long-distance races have twelve to sixteen hardy canine trailblazers at the helm.

To give you an idea of these dogs’ strength and endurance, records from Northwest Company fur traders in the 1800s note that a single pair of sled dogs could haul upwards of 1,000 pounds on a sledge (a sled like our modern day toboggan) over a short distance, and they routinely hauled loads of 300 or more pounds over 20 miles in under five hours. Modern day sled dogs travel at an average of 20 mph over shorter distances, and 10 to 14 mph on longer distances. Even in poor trail conditions, sled dogs can manage 6 to 7 miles per hour. The dogs may travel over 90 miles in a 24 hour period while pulling up to 85 pounds apiece!

When air travel became commonplace in the 1920s and 30s, sled dogs began to lose their role as a means of commercial transportation. The advent of major highways in the 1950s, as well as the invention and increasing use of snowmobiles, further rendered the dogs an object of the past. In today’s society, there are still working sled dogs, used to haul logs or wood, work trap lines, or give tourists rides on glaciers. The majority of mushing, however, is recreational or for sport.

The most common dog used for mushing today, as we mentioned earlier, is the Alaskan husky. The Alaskan Husky is not actually a unique breed but rather a mix of several breeds, including the Native Village dog of yore and oftentimes one or more hound or husky breeds (such as the Siberian or Malamute); however, pointers and even greyhounds have also been added to the mix in recent years. The Alaskan husky has a short to medium dense coat which is crucial for maintaining body heat in the frigid northern temps; for longer journeys, mushers often choose to outfit their teams in jackets and booties to help maintain body heat and protect the dogs’ paws from the elements. This has become more commonplace with the popularity of racing; racing dogs are being bred for speed, at the sacrifice of some of their natural hardiness and endurance.

Alaskan huskies range in weight from 50 to 80 pounds for working sled dogs, and 35 to 60 pounds for a racing dog. They are intelligent, affectionate dogs with an independent streak; while loyal to their pack (and people), they are to wandering and adventuring if not kept occupied or engaged. They are also avid diggers and renowned escape artists, so if you are planning to have one as a pet, a DogWatch Hidden Fence is the way to go. That said, Alaskan huskies are much more suited to a life of working or athletic pursuits than a life of leisure, and require ample space to exercise. The Alaskan husky is NOT an apartment dog! They can have health issues resulting from both genetics and their participation in racing, and there are veterinary associations, such as the International Sled Dog Veterinary Medical Association, that are dedicated to the health and wellbeing of these amazing animals.

Stay tuned next month for more on sled dogs and mushing, and the most famous sled dog of them all – Balto – as we prepare for mushing’s greatest race: the Iditarod.

Photo credits (top to bottom):

Frank Kovalcheck via Flickr.

Drew Avery via Flickr.

Clinton Little via Flickr.

Christine Zenino via Flickr.

Jeremy Keith via Flickr.

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Believe it or not, 2012 is upon us. While we’re busy making our resolutions, we think it’s time our pets make some resolutions of their own! We consulted with a panel of dogs and cats, and here’s what they came up with. We hope this gets your new year off on the right paw!

The Panel

The Canines

In 2012, I resolve to …

Kick my carb addiction once and for all. I WILL say NO to that bread that someone is always leaving on the counter! I wonder if they do Jenny Craig for dogs …
- Pebbles

Seek therapy for what my human tells me is an irrational belief that the leaves in the front yard pose some sort of threat. I don’t know, man … have you seen the way those things blow all over the place?! It’s not NATURAL, I tell you!
- Gir

1) Stop treating the leash as an object of torture and 2) stop blowing off my trainers on the agility course. I suppose it couldn’t hurt to give them the illusion of control …
- Riley

Find a better way to display my athletic prowess than by jumping up on the guests. It seems really strange, but evidently there are people who don’t like that very much … who’da thunk?
- Lucy

See if those Botox shots they give people for excessive sweating also work for excessive slobbering. The drool is ruining my game, man! How’s a guy supposed to impress a gal with drool trailing down his chin, ya know?
- Tonka

Let me preface this by saying that I am a LADY, and therefore refuse to accept that I do something as unfeminine as snoring; however, in the spirit of being a “good” dog, I resolve to start using those nose strip thingies. I wonder if they make them so they clean your pores at the same time …
- Malia

The Felines

In 2012, I resolve to …

See if my water dish has anything in it before I flip it over. The wet look just does not work on me. Then again, if my people would keep my water dish FULL all the time, I wouldn’t HAVE to flip it over. AHEM.
-  Puollo

Stop using the couch as a scratching post (even though it looks remarkably like one). And hire an interior decorator for my humans while I’m at it …
- Spike

As much as it pains me to do so, I will try my best to leave my hunting trophies outside, especially the stunned ones. (If only it weren’t so hysterical to watch my human freak out when they wake up and start running around the kitchen!)
- Mr. Jynx

Well, it has been suggested that I retire from my career as a street fighter, but I’m not sure I’m ready for that yet. I mean, dude, they named me after a house elf from Harry Potter, for goodness’ sake; I have to assert my machismo somehow! I retire now and I’ll always look back on how I coulda been a contender, you know? How about I just try to stay inside a little more?  One step at a time. Fair enough?
- Dobby (the cat, NOT the house elf)

I resolve to somehow get it through my human’s head that when I jam my face into his hand as he’s trying to work the computer mouse, I’m not actually seeking his attention, but rather trying to hijack the computer for use in my grand scheme for world domination. Foolish human. Resistance is futile.
- Morgana

Find a more appreciative audience for my moonlit serenades. My vocal talents are far too sublime to waste on those people with whom I live, who CLEARLY have no taste for fine music and classical feline vocals. Anybody know if Glee is casting for the next season?
- Eris

Find a speed to travel at that’s slightly slower than the speed of light. Oh, and learn how to take corners better. And find my brakes. My humans are getting sick of patching up the dents I keep leaving in the walls when I don’t stop in time.
- Jack

Get over our social anxiety. But the people… they’re so big! And scary! And there’s so many of them! And they smell weird! And they keep trying to touch us! OK, deep breath, think happy thoughts … Um, anyone got a paper bag?
- Karl and Gene

Any New Year’s Resolutions you wish your pet(s) would make? Post them in the comments selection below! And from all of us at DogWatch, have a safe, happy, and healthy new year!

Photos were provided by the respective pets’ humans, except for Morgana, who hijacked the computer and sent us her own picture.

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To many people, the word “poodle” conjures up images of a posh, pampered, Park Avenue pet with bows in its hair and bling on its neck; a dog that is suited for little more than lounging on a chaise or walking the urban runways with its equally posh owner. This image couldn’t be further from the truth; in reality, poodles are highly intelligent, determined, athletic dogs that love the water and love hunting – two things you most definitely WON’T find on Park Ave!

There are three distinct poodle sizes that are currently recognized by the American Kennel Club®:  the standard poodle, the miniature poodle, and the toy poodle. The standard and miniature breeds both compete in the non-sporting group, and the toy (not surprisingly) competes in the toy group. A standard poodle should stand over 15 inches tall at the shoulder and has a life expectancy of about 12 years; miniature poodles should stand over 10 inches, but not more than 15, and live to 14 or 15 years old; and toy poodles should stand 10 inches or under, and live to 14 or 15.

Poodles are avid water dogs; they love it and will charge right in. They have an instinctive hunting and retrieving drive (many will “point” birds and other critters), and a fairly high energy level. They are also highly intelligent and versatile and generally very easy to train; in fact, poodles have been used in circuses and dog shows for years due to their ability to quickly learn and successfully perform all manner of complicated tricks and maneuvers. This intelligence and versatility makes them great at agility and obedience pursuits, and has also led to them become commonly used as service and therapy dogs.

Social dogs, poodles are eager to please, which can make them a great family pet. It’s important to note that poodles require daily exercise and stimulus; without that, their energy and intelligence can lead them into considerable mischief! If you plan on letting your dog exercise outdoors unattended, we highly recommend installing a dog fence, as poodles’ inquisitiveness can cause them to roam.  Electronic dog fences, such as the DogWatch hidden fence, are perfect for poodles; with their intelligence, training them is a breeze, and they’ll be frolicking safely outside in a matter of hours.

The poodle’s great temperament and intelligence has made it a favorite for cross-breeding; many poodle mixes exist, such as the labradoodle (lab mix), schnoodle (schnauzer mix), golden doodle (golden retriever mix), and cockapoo (cocker spaniel mix). While we may not know all the poodle mixes out there, one thing we know for certain: with the poodle’s fluffy coat, it makes just about anything you breed it with that much cuter! And, the big bonus is that, like the poodle, the poodle mixes do not shed! We’ll have more about Poodle mixes in future posts.

The poodle’s coat is, without question, its best-known attribute and the reason behind much of the misperception of the breed as a fancy, frou-frou dog. While fancier clips and styles are not uncommon, in its natural state, a poodle has a dense, even, curly coat of only one layer. This single-layer coat leads to very minimal shedding, and has perpetuated the perception of the breed as hypoallergenic. In truth, no dog is hypoallergenic; some, like the poodle, trap the hair and dander they shed in their coats, rather than releasing it into the air (or onto your furniture). With the hair and dander trapped, allergens are not as readily released into the air, and allergies are not generally triggered. It is important that the coat is properly maintained to prevent the mats and tangles that may occur from the hair that has been trapped.

The coat can be any of a number of colors, including white, black, gray, blue, silver, brown, cafe-au-lait, apricot, and cream. It can be clipped in many different ways; the most recognizable of which is the Continental clip, the clip seen most frequently on show dogs. According to the AKC®, “In the Continental clip, the face, throat, feet, and base of the tail are shaved. The hindquarters are shaved with pompons (optional) on the hips. The legs are shaved, leaving bracelets on the hindlegs and puffs on the forelegs. There is a pompon on the end of the tail. The entire shaven foot and a portion of the shaven foreleg above the puff are visible. The rest of the body is left in full coat but may be shaped in order to insure overall balance.” This clip did not arise out of vanity, but rather functionality. It removed hair where it could, reducing drag in the water, and left dense patches of hair over vital organs and joints, helping to retain the dog’s body heat. The bow often seen in poodles’ topknots served a purpose as well; it allowed owners to easily recognize their dogs in the water from a distance.

In terms of show clips, there is also the puppy clip (a variation on the Continental clip), the English Saddle clip, and the Sporting clip. Many owners who do not show their dogs choose the pet clip, which is simply trimming the coat to a manageable length so it does not mat, tangle, or otherwise hamper the pet. A poodle with a pet clip generally only needs to be trimmed every 6-8 weeks; regular brushing will keep its coat in check in between trimmings.

The poodle is predisposed to some serious health issues that owners (current and prospective) should be aware of. Among these are Addison’s disease (a disorder of the adrenal glands), gastric dilatation volvulus (GDV or bloat/torsion), thyroid issues (hyperthyroid and hypothyroid), tracheal collapse, epilepsy (seizure disorder), juvenile renal disease (kidney disease), hip dysplasia, and cancer. Ear infections are also common, because the poodle’s minimally shedding coat can grow into its ear canal and trap wax and dirt there.

As far as the poodle’s origins, there is some debate; most agree that it is descended from Asian herding dogs, but what happened after that is subject to a certain amount of speculation. Some believe that it made its way west and was embraced by Germanic tribes the Goths and Osgoths, where it eventually became a German water dog.In fact, the name “poodle” is believed to be descended from the German word “pudel” or “pudelin,” meaning “to splash in water.” Others believe that North African Berbers brought the poodle out of Asia and into Portugal, making it a relative of the beloved Portuguese water dog. Still others claim it has Russian influences. One thing we know for certain is at some point the poodle made its way to France, where the breed was refined and standardized and made the country’s national dog. It is in France that many of the fancier (non-show) clips and styles originated, including dying white poodles’ fur, as a way of pleasing the vanity of the lords and ladies of the court.

The poodle made its way to England in the late nineteenth century and was recognized by the Kennel Club of England in 1874. It achieved recognition by the AKC in 1886, and the Poodle Club of America was founded 10 years later. The poodle’s popularity has continued to soar in the last 100+ years, and we expect it will be nestled in family’s hearths and hearts for centuries to come.

Have a poodle in your life? We’d love to hear your stories, and especially see your pictures! Comment below, email Heidi.fence@dogwatch.com, or post them on our Facebook wall. And don’t forget about our 2013 Calendar Contest!

From all of us at DogWatch, a very happy holiday to you and yours!

Sources:

AKC Breed History: http://www.akc.org/breeds/poodle/history.cfm

AKC Breed Bio: http://www.akc.org/breeds/poodle/

Poodle Place: http://www.poodle-place.com/poodlehist.htm

Poodle Club of America: http://www.poodleclubofamerica.org/health.htm

Photo credits (top to bottom):

Brandon Burns via Flickr

Martin Bishop via Flickr

A W (Living in Monrovia) via Flickr

AKC/Robert Young

Perry McKenna via Flickr

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It’s hard to believe the holidays are already upon us, but sure enough, Hannukah starts tomorrow(!) and Christmas is on Sunday. To help you with your last-minute shopping, here’s DogWatch’s gift guide for the pet owner in your life.

Drinkwell® Hydro-Go Pet Canteen

For the pet (and pet owner) on the go, Drinkwell’s canteen holds 36 ounces of water, and features a detachable bowl. With the bowl detached and filled, the canteen can double as a food bowl. The canteen’s mouth is large enough to allow you to put ice cubes in it, and the entire apparatus is dishwasher-safe.

Pawprints Ornament Kit

Everything you need to make an ornament featuring your pup or kitty’s pawprint. No mixing or mess; the impression is made using lightweight clay that then air dries and hardens into a keepsake ornament.

Couch or Car Seat Covers

For those who don’t mind sharing a seat with their pet, but aren’t so keen on the hair and dirt that Fido or Fluffy may leave behind. They come in various sizes, materials, and covers to fit your pet and lifestyle.

The FURminator®

A life (and furniture) saver for those with allergies, or just opposed to pet hair all over the place, the FURminator is a grooming tool that reaches a pet’s undercoat (the source of most shedding) and quickly and painlessly removes loose hair, reducing shedding (and hairballs!). And if your pet isn’t afraid of the vacuum cleaner (lucky you!), there’s an attachment for the FURminator that will allow your vacuum cleaner to suction all the hair the tool sheds right into its tank, eliminating cleanup. And check out their new FUR Dry™ garment that uses microfiber to draw water away from your pet’s coat while keeping your pet clean and your furniture dry!

Deluxe Self-Warming Bolster Dog Bed

While this bed is advertised for dogs, we’re willing to bet cats will love it as well. The bed contains a thermal layer that reflects your pet’s own body heat, acting as a self-warming heating pad and keeping your pet nice and toasty, and your electric bill nice and low.

Puppy Tweets™

For the social media-savvy pup, Puppy Tweets is a gadget that tweets your dog’s activities as he moves, barks, eats, and plays throughout the day. It’s motion-activated, attaches to your dog’s existing collar, and broadcasts the tweets via a USB receiver you connect to your computer. Comes with 500 pre-programmed tweets.

LED Lighted Dog Leash

The nights are longer this time of year, which means more walks in the dark with your dog. This leash features a red LED light that extends 18 inches and can be seen by drivers up to 1000 feet away, helping keep you and your dog visible and safe. The weather-resistant light can be set to flashing or continual glow, and has a 100,000 hour battery life. The leash is made or durable nylon webbing suitable for even the largest dogs.

Sporting Dog First Aid Kit

A comprehensive first aid kit suitable for a sporting or working dog that may get injured in the field, but just as good for a dog more content to keep a bit closer to the couch. The kit is housed in a rugged, water-resistant canvas bag and contains a complete first aid manual, plus: 1-800-Help-4-Pet Pamphlet (24 hour lost pet service), hydrogen peroxide, styptic pencil, 2″ flexible cohesive wrap, alcohol prep pads, 4″ x 4″ gauze pads, 3-ply towels, iodine solution, saline solution, stainless steel scissors, surgical scrub brush, 10 cc syringe, hydrocortisone cream, triple antibiotic ointment, 3″ cotton swabs, cotton balls, latex tourniquet, vinyl gloves, pill gun, iodine pads, skin staple gun, 6″ x 9″ cold pack, eye wash, thermometer with case, stainless steel forceps.

Doggles® ILS Doggie Goggles

Protect your pup’s eyes with these goggles that block UV rays, dirt, dust, and other irritants. Perfect for dogs that like to hang their heads out car windows, or go for long walks in less-than-temperate climates. Doggles feature interchangeable lenses and come in many lens colors, frame colors, frame patterns, and sizes.

Pet Head™ Pet Grooming Supplies

Pet Head is the chic new offshoot of Tigi®’s renowned Bed Head™ styling line, and features wet and dry shampoos, crème rinses and conditioners, wipes, sprays, and other grooming supplies to keep your dogs and cats looking as good as you do. The products come in a variety of scents so enticing that you’ll be tempted to use them for yourself! All Pet Head products are pH adjusted, free of parabens, sulfates, and DEA, and most importantly, CRUELTY-FREE.

The DogWatch® BigLeash™ Remote Trainer

With the BigLeash remote trainer, training your dog is easy, safe, and effective. The BigLeash remote trainer allows you to train your dog by employing precise timing, consistency, and remote application (such as when you need to get your dog’s attention when he is already halfway across the field). The BigLeash offers two-dog capability, allowing you to train two dogs at the same time; two-way communication between the transmitter and the collar, a unique LCD display; and the ability to choose and switch between audible and vibrating corrections and brief and continuous corrections.

A DogWatch Hidden Fence System

With the best underground dog fence, and both wired and wireless indoor dog fences, DogWatch has a pet containment option that will work for everyone. And all our dog fences work for cats, too! DogWatch is the only radio fence system (sometimes incorrectly referred to as an “electric fence”) to operate on an FM signal – an important safety feature. We have been in business since 1990 and have been a Consumers Digest ‘Best Buy’ every year since 1998. When you give a DogWatch Hidden Fence, you’re not just providing safety for a pet – you’re providing peace of mind for its owner. Contact your local dealer for more information.

We  hope this list helps you, and from all of us at DogWatch, have a safe and happy holiday this week!

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Season’s Greetings, DogWatch Fans!

DogWatch Hidden Fences is beginning work on our 2013 calendar! We will be selecting our favorite photos each month throughout 2012 for a spot in the calendar. More details will be coming after the holidays, but you don’t need to wait till then to submit your pictures of the furry best friend in your life!

If you think your pet is cute enough for his own page in our calendar, here’s how to enter:

Each month on our Facebook page, we’ll put out a call for entries of your pet photos that relate to that month. At the end of the month, DogWatch will select our favorite photo and notify the winner the following week via Facebook message and a post on our Facebook wall. Winners will receive free calendars and additional prizes to be announced from DogWatch.

Right now, we are looking for pictures of your pet from Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Funny, sweet, candid, or posed, we’re looking for them all! We especially like photos of pets showing off thier DogWatch collars! (but promise to keep our juding impartial in that regard.) You are welcome to submit up to 3 pictures of each of your pets (dogs AND/OR cats!) by posting them on our Facebook page’s wall.

Please note: in order to be reproduced clearly in the calendar, pictures need to be at least 300 pixels/inch at 5”x7”. If your picture does not meet this requirement, it will not be eligible. For help on setting or changing image size and resolution, please click here. For help on uploading images to a Facebook wall, please click here.

We look forward to seeing your pictures and wish you and your pets a safe and happy holiday season!

Photo credits:

Top photo by Nils Geylen via Flickr.

Bottom photo by Theresa A. Grenier.

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Holiday decorations, candles, special holiday meals, presents, candy, Christmas trees, mistletoe: many of the things that make the holidays look, taste, and smell so good can be potentially hazardous temptations for our pets. And our own distractions this time of year provide plenty of opportunities for mischief for our dogs and cats.

Alcoholic drinks left unattended may be lapped up by curious pups, and ribbons are frequently eaten off presents by inquisitive cats. Ornaments and tinsel can be the perfect temptation for a frisky feline, while the tree stand may look like a cool new water dish to your dog. To top it off, many popular holiday plants may look like a colorful, yummy treat, but can cause serious illness if consumed.

Since we can’t have our eyes on our pets 24/7, it is important to take appropriate precautions to protect them – - especially during the busier than usual holiday season. A good start is to become acquainted with all the potential pet hazards this time of year. We’ve listed some above, and the ASPCA has a great article on their site detailing additional considerations.

Perhaps the easiest way to protect our pets is to simply keep them out of harms way. Easier said than done, right? Actually, no! DogWatch® Hidden Fences has a line of indoor pet containment systems that are safe and easy to use for both dogs and cats. Our Indoor Hidden Boundaries allow you to keep Fido or Fluffy safely in the areas you deem appropriate for them. Indoor Hidden Boundaries are available in both wired and wireless models, and will give you the peace of mind that comes from knowing your pet is staying where you want him, even when you can’t be there.

Our Hidden Fences have been used successfully, both indoors and outdoors, for more than 20 years. They are efficient and effective. More importantly, they are safe for your pet and they keep your pet safe. As you probably know, our Hidden Fences are not “electric” fences; they operate on a ‘radio signal’ that is transmitted to a receiver collar worn by the dog (or cat.) The collar alerts the pet when he gets too close to the hidden boundary. Using flags and an audible signal from the collar, your pet is trained to recognize and respect his boundaries. Both dogs and cats usually learn quickly and easily.

Keep in mind that sometimes our Hidden Fences are mistakenly referred to generically as “invisible fences.” While there are similarities, Invisible Fence® is a brand name of a different company. There are also some important differences, so we invite you to visit our website at www.dogwatch.com to learn more about what sets DogWatch® Hidden Fences apart from other brands.

Here is the line-up of our versatile Indoor Hidden Boundaries products:

The I-50 is our most flexible solution. It can be used with or without a boundary wire, and is perfect for almost all of your indoor pet containment needs. Don’t want the dog or cat to crash your cocktail party or get underfoot while you’re cooking that special holiday dinner? The I-50 is a great choice. You can establish a permanent pet-free zone with a boundary wire, or because of its wireless capability, you can keep your options open and move it as needed.

The Skedaddle™ is small, attractive and portable. Skedaddle emits a signal without the use of any boundary wires. It protects areas up to 10 feet in diameter: perfect for keeping the Christmas tree safe from curious cats and energetic puppies! It is entirely wireless, so, like the I-50, you have the flexibility of relocating it when the holiday season is done.

We also offer two indoor systems that utilize boundary wires:

Scoot!® is is an extra small transmitter with a wire that can be discreetly hidden under the lip of a kitchen island, around the edge of a window, and in many other small areas. Scoot! works quietly, effectively, and hidden from view. Scoot! is an ideal solution for studios and apartments, and also works great as an indoor cat fence solution.

HouseKeeper™ is another indoor product designed to be used with a boundary wire to establish a larger avoidance area or to create multiple avoidance areas. This nifty little unit can be discreetly placed out-of-sight or even mounted on a basement ceiling to create a hidden fence to protect the area above it. The HouseKeeper works with up to 500 ft of boundary wire.

To get started with one of these great indoor systems and keep your pets (and your decorations!) safe this holiday season, visit our web site to find your local dealer. Your dealer can further explain how the systems work and help you pick the right one for you and your pets.

Photo credits:

Cat photo: C.W. Russell via Flickr

Product photos: DogWatch Hidden Fences

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December is almost upon us, and for many parts of the country, that means colder weather and maybe even snow! As you begin to prepare your house, your car, and yourself for the winter months, don’t forget to prepare your dog as well. Just as winter poses a host of challenges to us humans, it also challenges our pets. Snow and slush can cause coats to mat, salt and ice can harm tender paws, and low temps can make even the hardiest of dogs shiver. To help you and your dog weather the winter, DogWatch has put together some winter grooming tips. Check them out below, and let us know if you have any to add!

Coat care

Dogs with long coats require extra grooming in the winter. Many owners of long-haired dogs get their dogs’ coats trimmed during the warmer months, and as such, get out of the habit of frequently brushing them. Then in the winter months, as the coats grow back, they become tangled and matted, which not only looks unsightly, but actually prevents the dog from being able to properly trap heat with his coat, as mats do not retain heat. To keep your long-haired dog in his best condition in the winter, make sure to thoroughly brush him three to five times a week, checking for any tangles or mats and removing them. This will also prevent you from an expensive grooming bill when you have to get all those mats sheared off in the spring!

If the extra grooming is more work than you’d like, you can have your dog’s coat trimmed shorter for the winter as well; just make sure the groomer doesn’t trim it too short or remove too much of the dense undercoat, or your pup won’t have adequate protection from the cold and the elements. Your best bet would be to tell the groomer to leave the coat at least an inch or two longer than usual. Also, consider getting a sweater or jacket for your dog, which we’ll discuss in more detail later in this post.

For dogs with short coats, regular grooming is also a must, as the drier air dries out their skin and causes them to shed more. Brushing your dog three to five times a week will keep his coat clean, shiny, and healthy, and stimulate and distribute the natural oils his skin produces to prevent his skin from drying out, and prevent your furniture from becoming a fur repository.

Skin care

As we mentioned above, dogs’ skin, like ours, tends to dry out in the winter. There are several things you can do to help prevent this:

Shampoo your dog regularly
Dogs need to be bathed in winter months as well, not only to remove dirt and snow and debris, but to keep their skin and fur healthy. We recommend shampooing at least once a month with a moisturizing shampoo specifically formulated for pets, and following it with a conditioning rinse (also formulated for pets). Do not use human shampoo on your dog, as it can be excessively drying due to the difference in the pH levels of human skin and canine skin.

Deep condition
If your pup’s skin is extra dry, consider giving him a deep-conditioning treatment, much like you would with your own hair. Apply the conditioner, and then wrap your dog in a towel to keep him warm while the conditioner penetrates and does its job. Rinse off after five minutes, and thoroughly towel- or blow-dry your dog. NEVER let your dog run around with wet fur in the winter months, particularly outside! NOTE: If you chose to blow-dry your furry friend, make sure to only use the cool or low setting, and keep the dryer at least six inches away from his skin to avoid burning him.

Consider a humidifier
Many people run humidifiers in their houses to keep their own skin from getting overly dry in the winter; the same principle applies with dogs as well. The more moisture in the air, the less dry both human and canine skin becomes. Many stores have great sales going on right now, so you should be able to score a good deal on a humidifier. If that’s not in your budget, you could place bowls of water in various rooms in your house; as the water evaporates, it will humidify the air. You can tell how dry the air in your house is by how quickly the water evaporates, and that will provide a gauge as to whether you need an additional humidifier or need to put out more bowls of water.

Paw care

Proper paw care is essential for dogs that go outside in the winter. You wouldn’t go walking outside barefoot in the wintertime, and neither should your dog! As they’ve become domesticated over the years, dogs’ paws aren’t as tough as they once were, and so extra precautions need to be taken in the colder months. Salt and ice can scrape and cut your pup’s paws, and snow can ball up in between his toes, making it difficult to walk. Here’s what you can do to help keep your dog’s feet in tip-top condition:

Keep nails trimmed
Dogs’ nails get naturally worn down in the warmer months by walking on concrete and other hard surfaces, but in the winter, these surfaces may be covered in snow and ice, so you’ll need to stay on top of trimming your dog’s nails. Nails should be as short as possible without hitting the quick (the darker, pigmented part of the nail), and should be trimmed with a proper dog nail trimmer; never use scissors or human nail clippers on your dog! If your dog’s nails are too dark for you to see the quick, and/or you are nervous to trim them for fear of hitting the quick and causing bleeding, you can take your dog to the groomer or your vet, both of whom are trained to properly cut nails without injuring your dog. If you DO trim your dog’s nails yourself, make sure to invest in a jar of styptic powder, which you can apply topically to stop bleeding should you accidentally cut the quick.

Trim hair between toes
While it’s understandable to think that having extra fur between the toes will help keep your dog warmer, it can actually be problematic. Common in dogs with long and/or curly coats, toe hair can pick up balls of ice and snow that may cause irritation or even injury. To prevent this, routinely trim the hair between the toes, and remove any extra long and stray hairs. Many groomers will do this for you as well.

Protect the pads
Dogs’ paws are naturally thick and leathery and offer some protection against hard surfaces and the elements, but winter weather can be too much for many puppy paws. Salt, sand, snow, ice, and de-icing chemicals can cause dry paws, cracking, irritation, injury, and even infection. Whether your dog is a Great Pyrenees or a Pug, we strongly advise prepping its paws every time you go outside. You can do this by applying a balm like Musher’s Secret that forms a protective coating over the paws, protecting them from direct contact with harmful surfaces or chemicals. When you get back inside, make sure to thoroughly clean off your pup’s paws to remove all traces of the balm and any debris or chemicals your pup may have picked up on your walk. This will keep your dog from licking his paws and potentially getting sick, and will also keep the paws dry and warm.

Another viable option is to invest in a pair of doggie boots. Many sizes, styles, and colors are available, and they’re the quickest, easiest way to keep your dog’s feet safe. Some dogs want nothing to do with them, however, so if you buy a pair, make sure to find out the store’s return policy, just in case! Many stores will take them back, provided they’ve only been worn inside and are not dirty or damaged.

Coats and sweaters

The topic of clothes on dogs can be a divisive one, but winter is one time when we believe doggie outerwear to be absolutely justified. Small dogs, dogs with short coats, and breeds from warmer climates simply do not tolerate the cold as well as larger dogs, dogs with thicker/longer coats, and dogs from colder climates. Investing in a nice sweater or coat can help you and your dog enjoy your walks more by keeping him warm and dry, and preventing him from potentially getting hypothermia.

Diet

Some dogs may need more or different food in the colder months. Check with your vet to find out if you need to make any changes to your dog’s diet.

Anything we didn’t mention, or any additional suggestions on how to keep your pup protected this winter? Please comment below — We love hearing your feedback!

Sources:

Grooming Your Dog in the Winter: FetchDog

Winter Footcare: FetchDog

Winter Grooming Tips: DogTopics.com

Photo credits, top to bottom:

Andrew Bardwell via Flickr

Augie Schwer via Flickr

Yolanda (annrkiszt)via Flickr

Jussi Linkola via Flickr

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Thanksgiving is this week! Where has the time gone? We hope your holiday will be full of family, friends, and of course, food! While you’re preparing for the feast, keep in mind that some of the foods we may serve this Thursday, while tasty to us, can be dangerous to our dogs.

Onions, raisins, chocolate, hops (found in beer), Macadamia nuts, raw yeast dough, caffeine, nutmeg, and paprika can all cause serious (and potentially fatal) illnesses in dogs and should be avoided altogether. Garlic and white potatoes (especially potato peels) are up for debate; some experts say they can cause health issues for dogs, others say they are OK in small amounts. Nuts (especially salted), citrus fruits and oil extracts, dairy products, and pepper can all cause digestive trouble, and should be used very sparingly or avoided altogether.

That doesn’t mean that Fido has to miss out on the Thanksgiving fun, however! Here are some dog-friendly recipes you can make to show your pup just how thankful you are for him.

Thanksgiving Dinner for Dogs

Ingredients
3 lb/1.3 kg skinless turkey pieces (light and dark meat)
1 cup (about 6 oz/175 g) oatmeal (cooked)
1 lb/450 g sweet potatoes, cubed
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
4 tbsp turkey gravy (optional; to reduce the fat content, omit the gravy or substitute olive oil)

Directions
1. Cook the turkey according to directions.
2. Remove all the bones and dice the meat into large pieces.
3. If using fresh sweet potatoes, roast for about 25–30 minutes or until tender. Let cool, then peel and dice.
4. Cook the oatmeal according to package instructions.
5. Mix together the turkey meat, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce.  Optional: Add gravy or oil and mix thoroughly. (If your dog is at all prone to pancreatitis or other fat-related upsets, omit the gravy.)

Serve an appropriately sized portion for your pooch.  Refrigerated any additional portions so your pup can enjoy his own Thanksgiving leftovers!

Turkey & Cranberry Treats

Ingredients
1 cup whole cranberries
1 cup cooked, boned turkey
3-1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 egg
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup water or broth as needed

Note: If you’re cooking your turkey as you make the treats, you can substitute 1/4 cup of the pan drippings + 1/4 cup of water for the oil and broth.

Directions
1. First, preheat your oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease two cookie sheets.
2. Next, mix the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. In a blender or food processor, add the turkey and egg (and some of the water or broth as needed). When the turkey is the consistency of baby food, add the cranberries and continue to mix until it looks like a smoothie.
3. Pour this mixture into the mixing bowl with the dry ingredients and stir to create a thick dough. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough. This is a heavy dough so you’ll need to put a little muscle in it!
4. Use cookie cutters to cut the treats.
5. Put the treats on the cookie sheets and pop them in the oven for 25 minutes. Let them cool completely before serving them to your dogs or before refrigerating.

Sweet Potato Chews

Ingredients
1 sweet potato

Directions
1. Wash and peel a sweet potato
2. Cut down the middle lengthwise.
3. Cut long lengthwise slices about 1/3 to 1/4 of an inch wide and place them in a single layer on a cookie sheet (use a stainless steel sheet for healthier cooking).
4. Put in the oven at 250 degrees for about 3 hours. This leaves them kind of chewy, but you could also bake them a little longer (about 20-30 minutes) to get them crunchy. Keep them refrigerated for up to three weeks. You can freeze them for up to 4 months.

Pumpkin Dog Treats

Ingredients
1/2 c. canned pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie filling!)
4 tbsp molasses
4 tbsp water
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 c. whole wheat flour
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cinnamon (optional)

Directions
1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
2. Blend all of the wet ingredients (pumpkin, molasses, vegetable oil, water) together.
3. Add the dry ingredients (wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon) and stir until a soft dough forms.
4. Grab the dough by teaspoonfuls and roll it into balls with your hands (hint: wet hands work best). Drop the balls onto a cookie sheet/pizza pan and flatten them with a fork.
5. Bake until hard (approximately 25 min.). If you want them a bit crispier, you can just turn off your oven and let them cool in there overnight.

Apple Pie Dog Treats

Ingredients
6 large flour tortillas
2 cups natural, unsweetened applesauce
1 tablespoon molasses (optional)
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon butter

NOTE: If you’ll be adding molasses to the applesauce, mix the two together and stir until blended.

Directions
1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
2. Lay out the tortilla then spread on 2-3 tablespoons (depending on the size of the tortilla) of applesauce. Try not to get too much applesauce near the edges of the tortilla.
3. Roll the tortilla like a jellyroll then put the tortilla, seam down, on a baking sheet.
4. When you’ve filled and rolled all the tortillas, pop the baking sheets in the oven for 20 minutes.
5. After 20 minutes, pull the baking sheets from the oven and flip the rolls; they should be lightly browned on the bottom. Apply butter to the top side of each tortilla. Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon.
6. Return the rolls to the oven for about five minutes.
7. Remove from oven and allow the rolls to cool then slice them into bite-sized pieces.

From all of us at DogWatch, a very happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!

Photo credits (top to bottom):

Tony Alter via Flickr
The Bark
Dogtipper.com
Raise A Green Dog
Dogtipper.com

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